Open AccessTHE TRANSFORMATION OF WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER
Author(s) -
Martin A. Mason
Publication year - 1950
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v1.3
Subject(s) - waves and shallow water , transformation (genetics) , movement (music) , computer science , geology , acoustics , oceanography , physics , biochemistry , chemistry , gene
The purpose of this paper is to summarize existing knowledge of the processes involved in the movement of progressive oscillatory waves through shallow water and the fundamental principles controlling these processes. Variations in wave characteristics and their physical significance will be discussed as well as agreement between theory and observation. The application of available knowledge to engineering problems is treated in the following chapters.