Research on double-faced jacquard fabric with compound full-backed structure of three wefts

Weft-backed structures with compound weft colours can express the mixed colour effect. However, this structure is notsuitable for jacquard fabrics with a double-faced shading effect in the traditional single layer design mode. Takingtwenty-thread sateen with a step number (S) of 7 as an example, this paper investigates a design method for compoundfull-backed structure with three shaded-weave databases (SWDs) by selecting the primary weaves (PWs), designing thecompound full-backed technical points and establishing the compound structure database with three SWDs. With thisdesign method, a double-faced shading effect in combination with non-backed and full-backed effects on different sidesof the jacquard fabric at the same position is generated. The fabric colour card was produced with three SWDs and threesets of different coloured wefts, and their colour values were measured, followed by an analysis of the compoundstructures on the reverse side, lightness, colour purity and colour difference (DE*ab) of the specimens. The resultsshowed that the three covering effects on the reverse side, partly covered, critical position and totally covered, could beadjusted by controlling the step number and the transition direction of PW-C. For the specimens on the edges of thefabric colour card, their lightness and colour purity values showed a uniform transition effect along with the shadingprocess; their colour differences ranged from 1.23 to 3.69, both in the range of 2–5, and showed a trace or slight colourdifference between two adjacent fabric specimens, indicating that the colour shading effect with the three SWDs is stable.