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Transformation of Male Costume of Byelorussian Szlachta with Zupan
Author(s) -
А.А. Барвенова
Publication year - 2018
Publication title -
kratkie soobŝeniâ
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.179
H-Index - 1
ISSN - 0130-2620
DOI - 10.25681/iaras.0130-2620.250.114-128
Subject(s) - nobility , clothing , the renaissance , ancient history , period (music) , art , middle ages , costume design , history , visual arts , archaeology , art history , law , aesthetics , political science , politics
В эпоху Ренессанса произошла эволюция жупана: из военной одежды эпохи Средневековья он стал главным компонентом парадного костюма белорусского шляхтича. В статье предложены шесть основных причин появления репрезентативного мужского костюма с жупаном в ХVI в. Перечислено, почему костюм с жупаном господствовал в Беларуси до середины ХIХ в., приобретал богатые компоненты, в первую очередь слуцкий пояс, распространялся от магнатерии и шляхты к городской знати и мещанам. Одновременно с этим во время войн и восстаний ХVII–XIX вв. костюм с жупаном оставался военной одеждой. Показаны наиболее значимые археологические находки слуцких поясов. The Renaissance period saw an evolution of zupan; this item of military costume worn during the medieval times became the main item of ceremonial dress of Belorussian szlachta. The paper provides six main reasons why the ceremonial male attire that included a zupan appeared in the 16th century. The author explains why such attire with a zupan prevailed in Belorussia until the middle of the 19th century, acquiring colorful components, first of all, a Slutsk belt, and was accepted as the main garment item, first, by the magnates and the szlachta, and, subsequently, by city nobility and lower middle class. The military also wore garments with zupans throughout wars and rebellions of the 17th–19th centuries. The most important archaeological finds of Slutsk belts are described.

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