A REVIEW ON VARIOUS FORMULATION OF NANOEMULSIONS IN COSMETICS WITH PLANT EXTRACTS AS THE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

This review conducted to compare the difference of the formulation of nanoemulsion cosmetics by plant extracts between Centella asiatica, seed oil from Rubus idaeus, Phyllanthus urinaria, Garcinia mangostana L., Vellozia sauamata, and Cordyceps militaris extract. Materials and methods was taken from several literature in valid databases that focuses on current status of the formulation of nanoemulsion and its characteristics, nanoemulsion cosmetics, and formulation of nanoemulsion cosmetics that are made by plant extract as the active ingredient. Comparison of the formulas above can be seen from various aspects. Referring to each article, 4 out of 6 formulas use high energy techniques and the rest use low energy techniques. Formula 1, 3, 6 use high energy technique with high pressure homogenization, and formula 4 uses ultrasonication, which is still a high energy technique. Formulas 2 and 5 use low energy techniques, namely formula 2 using Phase Inversion Composition (PIC) and formula 5 using Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT). High-Pressure Homogenizer (HPH) is the most widely used for the manufacture of nanoemulsions. In terms of formula, the use of components such as surfactant, cosurfactant, oil phase, and water phase is also different from the 6 formulas presented. Even though all of the six formulas are different, the active ingredients in the form of nanoemulsions need to be tested until finally the goal of the cosmetic product is achieved.