Open AccessQUALIMETRIC ANALYSIS OF MISTAKEN ACTIONS OF THE CLIMBER DURING THE PASSING OF THE COMPETITIVE ROUTE
Author(s) -
Juri Vasilievich Kotchenko
Publication year - 2020
Publication title -
zdorovʹe čeloveka, teoriâ i metodika fizičeskoj kulʹtury i sporta
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
ISSN - 2414-0244
DOI - 10.14258/zosh(2020)4.09
Subject(s) - climbing , value (mathematics) , computer science , statistics , regression analysis , operations research , word error rate , order (exchange) , simulation , mathematics , artificial intelligence , engineering , economics , structural engineering , finance
The article presents the results of studies devoted to the analysis of erroneous actionsof the climber at the time of passing the competitive route. During the three competitive seasonsof 2016–2018 the performances of women at major international tournaments in the disciplineof difficulty climbing were studied (n = 631). Studies have revealed the main errors made duringthe climbing, to classify them, to determine the signs of controlled and uncontrolled errors. It wasestablished that the controlled errors do not have a noticeable direct impact on the result, but havea negative impact on the main spatial and temporal characteristics of climbing.A fundamentally new method of quantitative assessment of technical and tactical errors hasbeen developed, based on the use of the time factor of erroneous actions. Calculations made usingthe new method that the average error rate for champions is 0.28 points, for prize-winners is 0.40,and for athletes taking a place below the 20th is 1.6 points. During the analysis of the collected data,the of connection with the result of the performance R = 0.81 was established and the nature of thedependence of this relationship was determined.The regression model is constructed, which allows to calculate the standard error value dependingon the length of the passed section and determine its location in the overall of the competitive process.The knowledge of the error value makes it possible to conduct a complete analysis of the sportsperformance, the lost part of the competitive as a result of the error and adjust the training processin order to minimize erroneous actions.