Open AccessA Theoretical Explanation of the Fetch- and Duration-Limited Laws
Author(s) -
E. Fontaine
Publication year - 2013
Publication title -
journal of physical oceanography
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 1.706
H-Index - 143
eISSN - 1520-0485
pISSN - 0022-3670
DOI - 10.1175/jpo-d-11-0190.1
Subject(s) - fetch , duration (music) , dissipation , law , wind wave , constant (computer programming) , mechanics , breaking wave , wind speed , conservation law , sea state , meteorology , physics , geology , mathematics , mathematical analysis , wave propagation , computer science , oceanography , thermodynamics , optics , political science , acoustics , programming language
The evolution of wind-induced ocean waves is studied theoretically. The modeling assumes that wave groups evolve independently of each other in a state of local equilibrium between wind-pumping- and wave-breaking-induced dissipation. The well-known fetch and duration laws appear as natural solutions of the model in the case of a constant wind speed. The link between the fetch and duration laws is explained, and the results are successfully validated against various experimental data.