Open AccessInfluence of Mean Water Depth and a Subsurface Sandbar on the Onset and Strength of Wave Breaking
Author(s) -
Jinbao Song,
Michael L. Banner
Publication year - 2004
Publication title -
journal of physical oceanography
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 1.706
H-Index - 143
eISSN - 1520-0485
pISSN - 0022-3670
DOI - 10.1175/1520-0485(2004)034<0950:iomwda>2.0.co;2
Subject(s) - shoal , breaking wave , geology , waves and shallow water , deep water , wave height , wavenumber , significant wave height , wave shoaling , wind wave , mechanics , geomorphology , wave propagation , oceanography , physics , optics , mechanical wave , longitudinal wave