Open AccessVibrational spectroscopy coupled to classical least square analysis, a new approach for determination of skin moisturizing agents' mechanisms
Author(s) -
Vyumvuhore R.,
Tfayli A.,
Manfait M.,
BailletGuffroy A.
Publication year - 2014
Publication title -
skin research and technology
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.521
H-Index - 69
eISSN - 1600-0846
pISSN - 0909-752X
DOI - 10.1111/srt.12117
Subject(s) - stratum corneum , chemistry , barrier function , molecule , penetration (warfare) , chromatography , organic chemistry , medicine , engineering , mathematical optimization , mathematics , pathology , operations research
Background Skin dryness is an omnipresent symptom in various types of skin disorders. Thereby, a large panel of skin care products is developed for therapeutic purposes. However, there is still a lack of non‐invasive methods to determine the mechanisms of action of moisturizers at the molecular level. Methods In the present study, confocal Raman spectroscopy coupled to classical least square analyses and ATR ‐ FTIR were used to investigate the effect of different molecules on the stratum corneum ( SC ) hydration degree and barrier state. First, hygroscopic property was determined by analyzing samples at 90% RH ; secondly, the water barrier function was evaluated after the dehydration process (4% RH ). The molecules penetration kinetics across SC were also studied for 2 h. Results Using the present approach, glycerin and propylene glycol were found to be humectants; lanoline showed occlusive action, lactic acid has both humectant and barrier enhancer properties, and ethylhexyl palmitate and caprylic/capric acid triglyceride seemed to be emollients. These observations are in accordance with literature. Conclusion The present method non‐invasively characterizes the mechanism of action of tested molecules. This may improve knowledge of new molecules' structure–activity relationship and help make an effective therapeutic concept dealing with the various skin dysfunctions.