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Novel complex of cosmetic ingredients with promising action in preventing hair loss and follicular aging through mechanism involving enrichment of WNT /signaling, mitochondrial activity, and stem cells maintenance
Author(s) -
Honda Igarashi Mamy,
Silva Sheila Gomes,
Mercuri Maurizio,
Zuardi Flávia Macedo de Oliveira Neves,
Facchini Gustavo,
Silva Gustavo Henrique,
Lucia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro Ana,
Eberlin Samara
Publication year - 2021
Publication title -
journal of cosmetic dermatology
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.626
H-Index - 44
eISSN - 1473-2165
pISSN - 1473-2130
DOI - 10.1111/jocd.13815
Subject(s) - hair follicle , hair loss , wnt signaling pathway , minoxidil , oxidative stress , skin aging , reactive oxygen species , hair cycle , microbiology and biotechnology , dermal papillae , chemistry , pharmacology , biology , biochemistry , signal transduction , medicine , dermatology
Background Mechanisms involved in hair metabolism are diverse, and the availability of ingredients that normalize dysfunctions or mitigate the effects of extrinsic stress suffered daily is greatly desired by consumers to improve the aesthetic appearance of hair. Aims In this work, we carried out a preclinical exploratory approach to evaluate the effects of a complex of nanoencapsulated active ingredients (AcPi), as well as a cosmetic formulation containing AcPi (ShPi and HtPi) in mechanisms involving hair loss and follicular aging. Methods Human hair follicle dermal papilla cells and human scalp culture were treated with AcPi, ShPi, or HtPi and stimulated with UV radiation or testosterone for further measurement of mitochondrial biogenesis, reactive oxygen species (ROS), β‐catenin, dyhidrotestosterone (DHT), collagen XVIIα1 (COL17A1), and cutaneous permeation. Results Our results demonstrated that AcPi prevents oxidative stress and balances mitochondial activity disturbed by exposure to UV radiation. AcPi also promoted an enrichment of WNT /β‐catenin signaling pathway, stimulating hair growth, and lengthening the anagen phase of hair cycle. ShPi and HtPi were able to prevent hair aging, minimizing the excessive degradation of COL17A1 in hair follicle exposed to UV radiation, in addition to controlling androgenic metabolism by reducing DHT production. Conclusion The integral effects of AcPi have not been completely elucidated; however, these results, associated with clinical evidences, allow us to infer that this ingredient prevents follicular aging, miniaturization, and consequently hair loss by mechanisms involving energetic homeostasis maintenance, antioxidant, and anti‐androgenic actions.