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Influence of Shea ( Butyrospermum parkii ) butter, TiO 2 and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate on physical parameters and in vitro photoprotective efficacy
Author(s) -
Sarruf Fernanda D.,
Cândido Thalita M.,
Oliveira Camila A.,
BouChacra Nádia A.,
Robles Velasco Maria V.,
Baby André R.
Publication year - 2020
Publication title -
journal of cosmetic dermatology
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.626
H-Index - 44
eISSN - 1473-2165
pISSN - 1473-2130
DOI - 10.1111/jocd.13238
Subject(s) - sun protection factor , food science , in vitro , photoaging , in vitro toxicology , materials science , chemistry , mathematics , biochemistry , biology , medicine , genetics , dermatology
Background The development of photoprotective lipsticks containing natural bioactive compounds is a relevant current strategy to increase sun protection factor (SPF) value and lower the concentration of chemical UV filters, known for promoting sensitivity reactions. Aims Twelve photoprotective lipsticks were developed by Design of Experiment (DOE) and characterized to verify the influence of Shea butter ( Butyrospermum parkii ), titanium dioxide (TiO 2 ), and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) on physical parameters and in vitro photoprotective efficacy. Methods The influence of Shea butter, TiO 2, and EHM was evaluated by several parameters, such as melting point, colorimetry, thermal analysis by DSC, texture analysis, and sunscreen activity estimated in vitro. Results The construction of prediction models was possible for the following responses: maximum force by the cantilever test at 25 and 45°C; maximum distance by hardness test at 25°C; slope value at 25 and 45°C by the cantilever test; and UVA/UVB ratio and in vitro SPF. TiO 2 and EHM contributed to changes on the in vitro SPF value; however, unexpectedly, Shea butter had no influence on this efficacy parameter. Conclusion The assay allowed us to observe the influence of the variables in the analysis and to develop a response prediction model for some of the parameters assessed.