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Summary   Background  Costunolide ( COS ), a naturally occurring sesquiterpene lactone, is known to exert anti‐inflammatory, antioxidant, and anticancer effects. This study was undertaken to investigate the effects of costunolide on the promotion of hair growth.    Methods  Real‐time cell analyzer ( RTCA ), measurement of 5α‐reductase activity,  mRNA  expression, and Western blotting were adopted to address whether  COS  can stimulate the proliferation of human hair follicle dermal papilla cells ( hHFDPC s). The effect of  COS  on in vivo hair growth was examined by reconstitution assay and shaven dorsal skin in C57 BL /6 mice.    Results  Costunolide significantly promoted the proliferation of  hHFDPC s, which is comparable to that of tofacitinib.  COS  also inhibited the 5α‐reductase activity in  hHFDPC s. While  COS  increased the level of β‐catenin and Gli1  mRNA  and proteins, it suppressed transforming growth factor ( TGF )‐β1–induced phosphorylation of Smad‐1/5 in  hHFDPC s.  COS  increased the number of cultured  hHFDPC s to induce hair follicles from mouse epidermal cells in Spheres formation of reconstitution assay. Topical application of  COS  on the shaven back of C57 BL /6 mice significantly improved the hair growth.    Conclusions  Our results illustrate that  COS  promotes hair growth in vitro and in vivo by regulating the amount of growth factors and/or the activity of cellular responses through coordination of the  WNT ‐β‐catenin, hedgehog‐Gli, and  TGF ‐β1–Smad pathways.

Costunolide promotes the proliferation of human hair follicle dermal papilla cells and induces hair growth in C57 BL /6 mice