Open AccessTensile properties and contours of aging facial skin. A controlled double‐blind comparative study of the effects of retinol, melibiose‐lactose and their association
Author(s) -
PiérardFranchimont C.,
Castelli D.,
Cromphaut I. Van,
Bertin C.,
Ries G.,
Cauwenbergh G.,
Piérard G. E.
Publication year - 1998
Publication title -
skin research and technology
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.521
H-Index - 69
eISSN - 1600-0846
pISSN - 0909-752X
DOI - 10.1111/j.1600-0846.1998.tb00116.x
Subject(s) - wrinkle , ultimate tensile strength , lotion , grease , lactose , emulsion , medicine , food science , tear resistance , chemistry , materials science , composite material , biochemistry , pharmacology
Background/aims: Facial aging is accompanied by modifications in the tensile properties and contours of skin. In the present study we instrumentally assessed and compared the effect of either 0.04% retinol (ROL), 1% melibiose and 4% lactose (ME‐L) and their association (ROL‐ME‐L) to increase the firmness and smoothness of facial skin. A 1 % salicylic acid (SA) emulsion served as a cosmetic product reference. Methods: A total of 120 women were allocated to four randomized groups of 30 subjects, each group receiving one of the test products or a combination of test products. The tensile properties of facial skin were measured using the Cutometer® on seven occasions during the 12‐week treatment and during a 4‐week post‐treatment phase. Fine lines and wrinkles were assessed on replicas by using image analysis after optical shadowing. Results: Significant differences in efficacy and lingering activity were observed between products. SA brought the weakest beneficial effects. ROL and ME‐L provided better efficacy on both the tensile properties and contours of skin. They differed slightly according the nature of the biometrological variables. The combination ROL‐ME‐L achieved similar or even better results than the best of its components for each given physical property of skin. Conclusions: ROL, ME‐L, and ROL‐ME‐L formulations improve physical properties of skin that are impaired by aging. Their activities are notably superior to those of a comparative SA formulation.