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Hydrophilic and lipophilic moisturizers have similar penetration profiles but different effects on SC water distribution in vivo
Author(s) -
Caussin Julia,
Rozema Evelien,
Gooris Gert S.,
Wiechers Johann W.,
Pavel Stan,
Bouwstra Joke A.
Publication year - 2009
Publication title -
experimental dermatology
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 1.108
H-Index - 96
eISSN - 1600-0625
pISSN - 0906-6705
DOI - 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2009.00881.x
Subject(s) - moisturizer , stratum corneum , penetration (warfare) , fourier transform infrared spectroscopy , chemistry , attenuated total reflection , in vivo , chromatography , infrared spectroscopy , chemical engineering , organic chemistry , biochemistry , medicine , biology , microbiology and biotechnology , operations research , engineering , pathology
Dry skin is often treated with hydrophilic and/or lipophilic moisturizers. Hydrophilic moisturizers must penetrate the stratum corneum (SC) deeply to function properly, whereas lipophilic moisturizers should remain in the upper SC layers. In this study, both types of moisturizers were applied on volunteers for 3 h, after which the relative amount of moisturizer and the water distribution in the SC were determined using attenuated total reflectance‐Fourier transform infrared (ATR‐FTIR) spectroscopy in combination with tape‐stripping. The results show that while hydrophilic moisturizers penetrate much more readily than lipophilic moisturizers, the latter are abundantly present in the upper regions of the SC. It was also observed that a 3‐h treatment with lipophilic moisturizer did not result in increased water levels in the SC, whereas hydrophilic moisturizers retained water where they are located. The results suggest that upon prolonged application, adequate amounts of moisturizer can be obtained in those regions where they may cause moisturization in the central part of the SC. However, a single application of 3 h is probably too short to exert increased hydration as measured with ATR‐FTIR.