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Natural Arctium lappa fruit extract improves the clinical signs of aging skin
Author(s) -
Knott Anja,
Reuschlein Katja,
Mielke Heiko,
Wensorra Ursula,
Mummert Christopher,
Koop Urte,
Kausch Martina,
Kolbe Ludger,
Peters Nils,
Stäb Franz,
Wenck Horst,
Gallinat Stefan
Publication year - 2008
Publication title -
journal of cosmetic dermatology
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.626
H-Index - 44
eISSN - 1473-2165
pISSN - 1473-2130
DOI - 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2008.00407.x
Subject(s) - arctium lappa , in vivo , tumor necrosis factor alpha , medicine , interleukin , cytokine , inflammation , pharmacology , chemistry , immunology , traditional medicine , biology , microbiology and biotechnology
Summary Background Subclinical, chronic tissue inflammation involving the generation of cytokines (e.g., interleukin‐6 and tumor necrosis factor‐alpha) might contribute to the cutaneous aging process. Aims This study aims to screen for an active ingredient with anti‐inflammatory (i.e., reduction of interleukin‐6 and tumor necrosis factor‐alpha) and matrix‐stimulating efficacy which improves the clinical signs of skin aging in vivo . Patients/methods In vitro studies with pure Arctiin were performed investigating the inhibition of cytokine induction and stimulation of collagen neosynthesis. In vivo home‐in‐use studies using an Arctium lappa fruit extract–containing formulation were carried out to determine procollagen and hyaluronan synthesis, hyaluronan synthase‐2 gene expression, and reduction of wrinkle volume after treatment. Results In vitro studies on human dermal fibroblasts and monocyte‐derived dendritic cells supplemented with pure Arctiin showed relative to untreated control cells a stimulation of collagen synthesis and a decrease in interleukin‐6 and tumor necrosis factor‐alpha concentration, respectively. In addition, topical in vivo application of an A. lappa fruit extract–containing formulation for 12 weeks significantly stimulated procollagen synthesis and increased hyaluronan synthase‐2 expression as well as hyaluronan levels compared to vehicle‐treated control areas. Similarly, after a 4‐week treatment with an A. lappa fruit extract–containing formulation, wrinkle volume in the crow's feet area was significantly reduced as compared to treatment with the vehicle. Conclusions Our data show that topical treatment with a natural A. lappa fruit extract significantly improves the metabolism of the dermal extracellular matrix and leads to a visible wrinkle reduction in vivo . In conclusion, A. lappa fruit extract represents a targeted means to regenerate dermal structures and, thus, offers an effective treatment option for mature skin.