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The use of hydroxy acids on the skin: characteristics of C 8 ‐lipohydroxy acid
Author(s) -
SaintLéger Didier,
Lévêque JeanLuc,
Verschoore Michèle
Publication year - 2007
Publication title -
journal of cosmetic dermatology
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.626
H-Index - 44
eISSN - 1473-2165
pISSN - 1473-2130
DOI - 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00296.x
Subject(s) - salicylic acid , dandruff , acne , chemistry , derivative (finance) , antifungal , benzoic acid , phthalic acid , dermatology , organic chemistry , biochemistry , medicine , shampoo , financial economics , economics
Summary The hydroxy acids are widely used in skin creams because of their exfoliating and rejuvenating effect on photoaged skin. As a member of this family, the salicylic acid derivative known in the literature as 2‐hydroxy‐5‐octanoyl benzoic acid or β‐lipohydroxy acid has also been proposed as an exfoliant and as a treatment of photoaged skin and acne. This article reviews the effects of the hydroxy acids and compares them to those of the salicylic acid derivative. We propose the name C 8 ‐lipohydroxy acid (C8‐LHA) for this derivative to differentiate it from other related compounds. The lipophilic nature of C8‐LHA and its relatively slow penetration in the skin afford it an exfoliating effect that is efficient at low concentrations. It appears to have antimicrobial, anti‐inflammatory, and anticomedogenic properties, which make it effective against acne. Its antifungal and exfoliating properties are also likely to prove useful in combating dandruff.