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Human skin equivalents are an excellent tool to study the effect of moisturizers on the water distribution in the stratum corneum
Author(s) -
Bouwstra J. A.,
Nahmoed N.,
Groenink H. W. W.,
Ponec M.
Publication year - 2012
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00743.x
Subject(s) - stratum corneum , corneocyte , chemistry , relative humidity , desquamation , moisturizer , human skin , dry skin , swelling , glycerol , biophysics , chromatography , biochemistry , dermatology , materials science , biology , composite material , pathology , medicine , physics , genetics , thermodynamics
Synopsis In this study, the mode of action of moisturizers on the level of water in the stratum corneum was studied using cryo‐scanning electron microscopy. As model for dry skin, we used human skin equivalents ( HSE s) generated at 93% or 60% relative humidity ( RH ). During the generation of the HSE s, the moisturizers were applied during a period of maximal 2 weeks. In HSE s generated under normal culture conditions (93% RH ), application of 10% glycerol or 5% urea formulations resulted in increased water levels. Whereas the 5% urea formulations resulted mainly in the formation of intercellular water domains, after 10% glycerol both swelling of corneocytes and formation of intercellular water domains were noticed. A reduction in RH to 60% during treatment reduced the stratum corneum water levels drastically. Treatment with the non‐occlusive lipophilic moisturizer isopropyl isostearate resulted in increased water level in the central part of the stratum corneum compared with the untreated control. Our results show that HSE s can be used as a model to study the water distribution.