Premium
Fluorescence and coloration of grey hair
Author(s) -
Daly S.,
Bianchini R.,
Polefka T.,
Jumbelic L.,
Jachowicz J.
Publication year - 2009
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00500.x
Subject(s) - fluorescence , analytical chemistry (journal) , emission spectrum , chemistry , spectral line , tryptophan , materials science , optics , physics , chromatography , astronomy , biochemistry , amino acid
Synopsis Grey hair samples were collected from 11 individuals and separated into un‐pigmented and pigmented fibres (International Hair Importers). Fluorescence measurements were obtained by using a double‐grating fluorescence spectrophotometer and a bifurcated fibre optics accessory to measure the spectra directly from the surface of hair at various distances from the fibre root. Colour measurements were carried out by using a Hunter colorimeter. The fluorescence spectra of un‐pigmented hair obtained by the excitation at 290 nm show a peak at 356 nm [tryptophan (Trp)], and multi‐peak emissions in the range from 395 to 500 nm. A significant variation in the Trp emission intensity at 356 nm vs. the intensity of emission in the 395–500 nm range was observed for hair collected from various individuals with yellow coloured hair producing stronger relative emission in 395–500 nm range. Quantitative measurements of coloration and the calculation of the Yellowness Index (YI) showed linear correlation between YI and the ratio of fluorescence intensities I 440 /I 356 The spectra obtained by excitation at 320 nm showed the emission peaks at 395 nm (unidentified), 420 nm ( N ‐formylkynurenine), 460 nm (kynurenine), and 495 nm (3‐hydroxykynurenine), which are the products of oxidative or metabolic conversion of tryptophan. Un‐pigmented, yellow hair showed a build‐up of the fluorescence band corresponding to 3‐hydroxykynurenine at 495 nm. The data also showed the fluorescence quenching effect of melanin resulting in the lowering of the fluorescence intensity of pigmented hair. The spectra obtained at various positions along the fibres demonstrated gradual photo‐decomposition of hair chromophores during their lifetimes. This was indicated by a decrease of Trp fluorescence intensity, which was relatively fast (8·10 −4 –1.5·10 −3 [day −1 ] as calculated for hair obtained from various individuals) for un‐pigmented hair and slower for pigmented hair. A decrease in Trp emission was accompanied by an increase in the yellow coloration toward the ends of un‐pigmented fibres.