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Chitin–glucan, a natural cell scaffold for skin moisturization and rejuvenation
Author(s) -
Gautier S.,
XhauflaireUhoda E.,
Gonry P.,
Piérard G. E.
Publication year - 2008
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00470.x
Subject(s) - stratum corneum , transepidermal water loss , chitin , desquamation , wrinkle , dermatology , erythema , glucan , beta glucan , barrier function , chemistry , cleanser , medicine , food science , chitosan , biology , biochemistry , pathology , gerontology , microbiology and biotechnology
Synopsis Two clinical studies were conducted to evaluate the tolerance and effects of a copolymer of chitin and beta‐glucan, forming the exoskeleton of fungal cell walls, now supplied for cosmetic applications. A 6‐week randomized, double‐blind, placebo‐controlled study was conducted on 13 volunteers with sensitive skin to compare with 0.5–2% formulations chitin–glucan applied twice daily. Biometrological evaluations showed that erythema did not develop, the water retention capacity of the stratum corneum increased and the transepidermal water loss moderately decreased. Another 16‐week randomized, double‐blind, placebo‐controlled study was conducted on 20 men showing signs of ageing skin. A 1.5% chitin–glucan formulation was applied twice daily. Objective biometrological assessments showed a progressive increase in skin firmness and stratum corneum hydration when desquamation and skin roughness decreased. In conclusion, the chitin–glucan formulations appear safe. They significantly mitigate some signs of skin ageing and improve both stratum corneum hydration and skin barrier function.