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Simultaneous enhancement of cosmetic function and feel via molecular investigation of stickiness
Author(s) -
Kudoh H.,
Iyanagi H.,
Yoshizawa K.,
Okura S.,
Nakamae K.
Publication year - 2006
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00307_2.x
Subject(s) - methacrylate , polymer , acrylate , cosmetics , copolymer , polymer science , polymer chemistry , methyl methacrylate , polymethyl methacrylate , chemistry , materials science , chemical engineering , organic chemistry , engineering
Moisturizing performance is often a very important factor in cosmetics. However, incorporating high concentrations of moisturizing agents often causes products to become sticky, a feel that consumers dislike. We suspected that the reason why high moisturizer content generates strong stickiness is that the polar group of the molecule is exposed at the surface. Thus, we began with a hypothesis that stickiness could be prevented through coexistence with a substance minimizing the exposure of polar group. Using glycerine as a moisturizing agent, we screened a large number of conventional materials for reducing stickiness but failed to find an effective compound. We then considered the use of a polymer for this purpose and synthesized a custom‐made polymer, polyoxyethylene methacrylate 2‐hydroxyethyl methacrylate fluoroalkyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer SR). Our experiments revealed that Polymer SR reduces the stickiness of glycerine by forming a hydrophobic film without hindering moisturizing performance. To clarify the mechanism by which Polymer SR reduces stickiness, we investigated the interaction between the Polymer SR and glycerine in solution using NMR and static light scattering measurements. We learned that Polymer SR and glycerine form a complex via hydrogen bonding of glycerine that results in orientation of the hydrophobic group of Polymer SR towards the outside. Subjective sensory tests supported the hypothesis that this hydrophobic orientation was maintained on the dermal surface even after application to skin. We believe that by taking into account the intended function and feel our technique for reducing the stickiness of moisturizers can be adopted for use with other substances and will contribute to future cosmetic research.