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Effect of 2‐hydroxyacids on guinea‐pig footpad stratum corneum: mechanical properties and binding studies
Author(s) -
ALDERSON SUSAN G.,
BARRATT MARTIN D.,
BLACK J. GORDON
Publication year - 1984
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00363.x
Subject(s) - stratum corneum , chemistry , solvent , biophysics , chromatography , guinea pig , biochemistry , stereochemistry , biology , genetics , endocrinology
Synopsis The effect of aqueous solutions of 2‐hydroxyacids of chain length C 3 to C 10 on the extensibility of undamaged and solvent‐damaged guinea‐pig footpad stratum corneum has been studied. The increase in extensibility of solvent‐damaged corneum, caused by treatment with hydroxyacid, reached a maximum with 2‐hydroxycaprylic acid (C 8 ); on undamaged corneum, 2‐hydroxycaprylic acid was the only hydroxyacid studied to give a significant effect. The increase in corneum extensibility produced by 2‐hydroxyacids decreases when the pH is raised from 3 to 4. This loss of effect correlates with the ionization of the hydroxyacid (p K ˜ 3.85). The binding of radiolabelled 2‐hydroxycaproic (C 6 ) and 2‐hydroxycaprylic acids to stratum corneum has been studied. 2‐Hydroxycaprylic acid binds much more strongly than 2‐hydroxycaproic acid, the difference in the binding being consistent with the hydrophobic binding energy of two methylene groups. Raising the pH above 3.5 results in a large decrease in the binding of 2‐hydroxycaprylic acid in line with the corresponding reduction in extensibility. Treatment with 2‐hydroxyacids results in a small increase in the water‐binding capacity of solvent‐damaged stratum corneum, but in a decrease in the water‐binding capacity of undamaged stratum corneum. These data are discussed in terms of a possible mechanism for the plasticizing of stratum corneum. Effet des 2‐hydroxyacides sur la couche cornée du coussin des pattes de cobaye