Hydrophilic properties of aromatics

Synopsis The study of the behaviour of perfume ingredients in emulsions involves several technological problems. Recently, the scientific and practical validity of the parameter known as ‘hydrophilic value’ K d (according to Bonadeo) was recognised; it relates to the behaviour of fatty materials in emulsions. The purpose of this research was to verify the reliability of the above parameter as applied to perfume ingredients. From the experimental results it is possible to establish a mathematical relationship between K d and the ‘required emulsification value’ (HLB r ) of the aromatics used in perfuming cosmetics and toiletries. From the K d value it is possible to calculate the critical limit of the water phase (CLWP) concerning the single ingredients of a perfume compound. These parameters are particularly important in predicting the optimal behaviour of perfumes in the chemical‐physical balance of emulsions, with which are connected the principal parameters of the chemical and olfactive stability. Thus, in practice, it has been demonstrated that the perfumed substances behave as, and can be considered as, other fatty bodies forming the fatty phase of emulsions. Hydrophilie des huiles essentielles