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Etudes de tolérances oculaire et cutanée chez le lapin de differents echantillons d'esters d'acides gras
Author(s) -
GUILLOT J. P.,
GIAUFFRET J. Y.,
MARTINI M. C.,
GONNET J. F.,
SOULÉ G.
Publication year - 1979
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00222.x
Subject(s) - chemistry
Synopsis Des tests ont été conduits, en complément d'études antérieures (1, 2), sur dés produits commerciaux en provenance de différents fournisseurs. La série examinée comporte sept esters isopropyliques et cinq esters butyliques d'acides gras, assez couramment utilisés en cosmétologie. Les essais de tolérances oculaire et cutanée ont été effectués sur le lapin selon les méthodes officielles francaises, mais avec quelques compléments ou modifications. Les résultats montrent que pratiquement tous les produits, testés à l'état pur, ont provoqué des réactions d'intolérance plus ou moins marquées. Seul un stéarate d'isopropyle (sur deux) semble relativement bien tolére malgré un indice d'irritation cutanée primaire supérieur à 1. Deux esters ont été particulièrement agressifs, puisqu'il a fallu interrompre le traitement après cinq semaines d'applications, ce sont: l'isostéarate d'isopropyle et l'un des deux linoléates d'isopropyle. D'autre part, l'étude de ces matières premières en suspension aqueuse à 10% a permis de mettre en évidence une diminution notable des réactions observées à l'état pur, dans la plupart des cas. Eye and skin irritation tests on the rabbit of several fatty acid estersSummary Continuing preceding work (1,2), a series of tests has been carried out on the toxicological evaluation of samples of different fatty esters obtained from several manufacturers. Eye irritation tests and skin irritation and sensitisation tests were carried on the rabbit following the official French methods with minor modifications. When tested pure, nearly all the isopropyl and butyl esters used gave some adverse reactions. Only one sample (out of two tested) of isopropyl stearate appeared to be well tolerated although the primary irritation index on skin was greater than one. The two esters with the greatest adverse skin reactions were isopropyl isostearate and one of two isopropyl linoleates. Ten per cent aqueous dispersion showed considerable diminution of the adverse reactions in the majority of the cases. Considering the results obtained in this paper together with those published previously (1) being twenty‐seven samples covering fifteen different fatty esters, the worse reactions were obtained with the C 8 , C 12 , C 14 saturated together with the oleate and linoleate esters. Isopropyl palmitate, stearyl heptonate and arachidyl propionate were the best tolerated as pure materials. Other adverse reactions were obtained with the isopropyl, butyl and octyl stearates and isostearates (except for one of two isopropyl stearates) and from these results appears that the alcohol moiety plays little part in irritation when compared with the fatty acid chain. Examination of peroxy values indicates that these have a significant adverse effect for oleates and linoleates.