Premium
Bio‐sourced polymers in cosmetic emulsions: a hidden potential of the alginates as thickeners and gelling agents
Author(s) -
Terescenco Daria,
Hadj Benali Lalia,
Canivet Fabien,
Benoit le Gelebart Maud,
Hucher Nicolas,
Gore Ecaterina,
Picard Céline
Publication year - 2021
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/ics.12732
Subject(s) - xanthan gum , emulsion , polymer , texture (cosmology) , materials science , chemical engineering , natural polymers , chemistry , polymer science , composite material , rheology , organic chemistry , computer science , image (mathematics) , artificial intelligence , engineering
Objective The present work aims to investigate the impact of the alginates on the texture properties of cosmetic emulsions. For this purpose, five systems were selected: a classical emulsion without polymer and four emulsions containing polymers, as texture modifiers, at the level of 1%. Two different grades of alginates were chosen: one rich in mannuronic acid and one rich in guluronic acid. The objective was also to evaluate the potential of in‐situ gelation during formulation. The guluronic rich sample was gelled to evaluate the effect on the texture properties. Finally, alginates‐based systems were compared to the xanthan gum as a bio‐sourced polymer reference. Methods The sensory profile of the systems was established through a combination of prediction models and sensory analysis. The emulsion residual films obtained with natural polymers, Alginates and Xanthan Gum used as thickeners, as well as with the gelled version, were similar. However, the structural differences between polymers intervene during the characterisation of the sensory properties “before” and “during” application. A multi‐scale physicochemical analysis was used to explain these differences. Results Due to a controlled formulation process, the use of the polymers did not affect the microstructure of the emulsion which remained similar to the control one. The main impact of the polymers was observed on the macroscopic level: both alginates showed their unique textural signature, different from the classical Xanthan Gum. Due to weak structural differences, mechanical and textural properties were very close between the mannuronic rich and guluronic rich samples, when not gelled, compared to other emulsions. However, the molar mass and the mannuronic/guluronic acids ratio were proved to be crucial for the stretching and consistency properties, showing that this structural difference may have an impact when products are handled in traction and compression. Conclusion Meanwhile, the viscoelastic properties and the dynamic viscosity were greatly increased for the emulsion containing the gelled version of the alginate when compared to the classical polymers. The emulsion was also more consistent as proved by the textural analysis, pointing at better stability and suspension potential of the gelled emulsion versus the classical one containing the usual natural thickening agents.