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Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ‐tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long‐term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties
Author(s) -
Jacques Carine,
Bacqueville Daniel,
JeanjeanMiquel Corinne,
Génies Camille,
Noizet Maité,
Tourette Amelie,
BessouTouya Sandrine,
Duplan Hélène
Publication year - 2021
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/ics.12705
Subject(s) - chemistry , bioavailability , catalase , antioxidant , superoxide dismutase , pharmacology , oxidative stress , emulsion , biochemistry , medicine
Objective We investigated the dermal bioavailability and antioxidative properties of a sunscreen formulation containing two antioxidants, oxothiazolidine (OTZ) and δ‐tocopheryl glucoside (DTG). OTZ reacts directly with reactive oxygen species to form taurine, while DTG is metabolized in δ‐tocopherol to achieve antioxidative activities. Methods After topical application to a hair follicle‐derived reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, followed by solar‐simulated radiation, kinetics of bioavailability and antioxidative responses were measured over 24 h. Markers for oxidative stress were malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activities. Results The two antioxidants had different bioavailability profiles: OTZ was rapidly and extensively absorbed, whereas DTG was slowly absorbed and converted to δ‐tocopherol. Compared to OTZ alone, the protection against effects on MDA levels and SOD and catalase activities was higher when DTG was used alone or in combination with OTZ. When used in combination, the degree of protection increased over time and remained constant over 24 h with maximal protection 2 h post‐irradiation. DTG slowly penetrated into the skin and was present in the skin at all post‐irradiation timepoints, thus allowing a slow but constant supply of δ‐tocopherol over at least 24 h. By contrast, the oxidative protection by OTZ was immediate but short‐lived due to its rapid penetration through the RHE and into the receptor fluid. Conclusion These results indicate a complementary sunlight protective action of OTZ and DTG with an immediate delivery of OTZ just after topical application of the formulation, and a prolonged skin delivery of δ‐tocopherol from the slower penetration and metabolism of DTG.