Premium
Effect of hydroxypropyl‐β‐cyclodextrin in fluid and semi‐solid submicron emulsions on physiological skin parameters during regular in vivo application
Author(s) -
Pany Astrid,
Wohlgenannt Marie,
Klopprogge Safoura,
Wolzt Michael,
Heuser Thomas,
Kotisch Harald,
Valenta Claudia,
Klang Victoria
Publication year - 2021
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/ics.12674
Subject(s) - in vivo , cyclodextrin , chemistry , materials science , stereochemistry , chromatography , biology , microbiology and biotechnology
Objective The aim of the present study was to evaluate the effect of hydroxypropyl‐β‐cyclodextrin (HP‐β‐CD) in cosmetic submicron emulsions and submicron emulsion gels on physiological skin parameters during regular application in a clinical set‐up. Methods Formulation morphology was investigated using cryo‐transmission electron microscopy. Stability of the employed formulations was determined by photon correlation spectroscopy, measurement of pH and rheological properties. Effect on physiological skin parameters was evaluated during regular application over four weeks in a parallel group study ( n = 15, healthy forearm skin) with a Corneometer, Sebumeter, skin‐pH‐Meter, Aquaflux and an Epsilon sensor. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was employed to monitor urea and NMF levels. Results Both submicron emulsions and gels showed satisfying storage stability irrespective of cyclodextrin incorporation. No statistically significant effects on skin barrier function and any of the observed parameters were obtained, indicating good skin tolerability of all tested formulations. Conclusion Results suggest good skin tolerability of the developed cosmetic submicron emulsions and gels with HP‐β‐CD.