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Deposition of plant lipids after single application of a lip care product determined by confocal raman spectroscopy, corneometry and transepidermal water‐loss
Author(s) -
Bielfeldt S.,
Blaak J.,
Laing S.,
Schleißinger M.,
Theiss C.,
Wilhelm KP,
Staib P.
Publication year - 2019
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/ics.12533
Subject(s) - transepidermal water loss , stratum corneum , wax , chemistry , skin care , penetration (warfare) , skin barrier , olive oil , food science , dermatology , biomedical engineering , chromatography , medicine , pathology , biochemistry , mathematics , organic chemistry , operations research
Abstract Objective Lip treatment products often incorporate oils and waxes in their formulations, and a desired outcome of their use is to prevent lip dryness and roughness as well as help to repair this condition. The objective of this study was to combine confocal Raman spectroscopy with skin capacitance (corneometry) and transepidermal water loss (closed chamber Aquaflux system) measurements, in the evaluation of the degree of moisturization and lip skin penetration of a fruit wax ( Rhus vernicula peel cera) and natural oil‐based ( Cocos nucifera fruit oil and Olea europea oil) lip care product, following a single application. Methods The study was conducted on a total of 15 healthy female volunteers. Instrumental measurements were performed before and 30 min, 2 h and 6 h after a single application of the product. Results Lip skin barrier function as well as lip hydration were significantly improved and penetration of olive oil was maintained for at least 6 h post product application. The deposition of the three component lipids (berry fruit wax, coconut oil and olive oil) into the stratum corneum after a single application of the lip care product was maintained and data significant for 2–6 h post product application. Lipid deposition was regarded as a positive long‐lasting skin care (depot‐) effect combined with a profound hydrating effect for about 6 h. Conclusion The tri‐method approach taken in this study is deemed relevant and valid for measuring lip hydration offering a complimentary assessment of the barrier function of lip skin and interactive effects of cosmetic ingredients.