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Validation of a predictive method for sunscreen formula evaluation using gene expression analysis in a Chinese reconstructed full‐thickness skin model
Author(s) -
Liu Y.,
Wang R.,
He X.,
Dai H.,
Betts R. J.,
Marionnet C.,
Bernerd F.,
Planel E.,
Wang X.,
Nocairi H.,
Cai Z.,
Qiu J.,
Ding C.
Publication year - 2019
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/ics.12518
Subject(s) - photoprotection , microbiology and biotechnology , chemistry , gene expression , biology , gene , biochemistry , photosynthesis
Abstract Objective This study aimed to establish a predictive in vitro method for assessing the photoprotective properties of sunscreens using a reconstructed full‐thickness skin model. Materials and Methods A full‐thickness skin model reconstructed with human fibroblasts and keratinocytes isolated from Chinese skin was exposed to daily UV radiation ( DUVR ). We examined the transcriptomic response, identifying genes for which expression was modulated by DUVR in a dose‐dependent manner. We then validated the methodology for efficacy evaluation of different sunscreens formulas. Results The reconstructed skin model was histologically consistent with human skin, and upon DUVR exposure, the constituent fibroblasts and keratinocytes exhibited transcriptomic alterations in pathways associated with oxidative stress, inflammation and extracellular matrix remodelling. When used to evaluate sunscreen protection on the model, the observed level of protection from UV ‐induced gene expression was consistent with the corresponding protection factors determined clinically and allowed for statistical ranking of sunscreen efficacy. Conclusions Within this study we show that quantification of gene modulation within the reconstructed skin model is a biologically relevant approach with sensitivity and predictability to evaluate photoprotection products.