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Pre‐clinical formulation screening, development and stability of acetyl aspartic acid for cosmetic application
Author(s) -
Cattley K.,
Duracher L.,
Camattari P.,
Mavon A.,
Grooby S.
Publication year - 2015
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/ics.12256
Subject(s) - active ingredient , emulsion , chemistry , in silico , aspartic acid , keratinocyte , organoleptic , chromatography , biochemical engineering , in vitro , combinatorial chemistry , biochemistry , amino acid , pharmacology , biology , food science , engineering , gene
Synopsis Background Acetyl aspartic acid (A‐A‐A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap). Using an in silico and in vitro approach, A‐A‐A was found increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal expression of MMP making this compound a potential active ingredient for cosmetic application. Objectives To determine the conditions to successfully formulate A‐A‐A for skin delivery investigation and in vivo clinical assessment by the systematic approach of pre‐formulation testing of the active, screening of formulation type on active delivery and stability evaluations. Methods Analytical evaluation of A‐A‐A was undertaken using LC‐MS ESI method. Formulation stability was evaluated using Brookfield viscometer, pH analysis, optical microscopy and organoleptic evaluations. Results Analytical evaluation of A‐A‐A shows that pH significantly impacts chemical stability of the molecule. A‐A‐A containing formulae show minimal differences to vehicle product throughout the testing. Conclusion A‐A‐A is an active that can be successfully formulated in a cosmetic o/w emulsion within defined pH considerations.