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Formulation and evaluation on human skin of a water‐in‐oil emulsion containing M uscat hamburg black grape seed extract
Author(s) -
Sharif A.,
Akhtar N.,
Khan M. S.,
Menaa A.,
Menaa B.,
Khan B. A.,
Menaa F.
Publication year - 2015
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/ics.12184
Subject(s) - erythema , placebo , human skin , medicine , traditional medicine , dermatology , biology , genetics , alternative medicine , pathology
Synopsis Background Vitis vinifera ‘ muscat hamburg’ (Vitaceae) is a blue‐black grape variety commonly found in Pakistan. It has been consumed and used in traditional medicine for centuries. Compared to other grapes, M. hamburg records one of the greatest amount of polyphenols and displays potent antioxidant activities, which make it a great candidate for its exploitation in the development of stable cream emulsions destined to improve the skin appearance. Objective Evaluate the effects of stable water‐in‐oil (W/O) emulsion containing 2% M. hamburg grape seed extract (‘formulation’) on human cheek skin in comparison with the placebo (‘base’). Methods An occlusive patch test, containing either the formulation or the base, was topically tested for 8 weeks during a winter period in young adult and healthy Pakistani male volunteers. The subjects were instructed to use twice a day the base and the formulation on their right and left cheek skin, respectively. Non‐invasive measurements on these skin areas were carried out every week to assess any effects produced on melanin, elasticity and sebum. Skin compatibility assay (Burchard test) was used to report any potential skin reactivity. ANOVA , paired sample t ‐test and LSD test were applied to determine the statistical data significance. Results Significant differences ( P ≤ 0.05) were found between the placebo and the formulation in terms of their respective skin effects elicited on melanin, elasticity and sebum content. Nevertheless, placebo and formulation exerted similar effects on skin erythema and moisture contents. Importantly, no skin hypersensitivity cases were reported during the whole course of the study. Conclusion The developed grape‐based cream could be efficiently and safely applied to improve a number of skin conditions (e.g. hyper‐pigmentation, premature ageing, acne).