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Determination of the influence of factors (ethanol, pH and a w ) on the preservation of cosmetics using experimental design
Author(s) -
Berthele H.,
Sella O.,
Lavarde M.,
Mielcarek C.,
PenseLheritier A.M.,
Pirnay S.
Publication year - 2014
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/ics.12094
Subject(s) - preservative , cosmetics , ethanol , chemistry , mathematics , biochemical engineering , antimicrobial , stability (learning theory) , food science , computer science , engineering , organic chemistry , machine learning
Synopsis Objective Ethanol, pH and water activity are three well‐known parameters that can influence the preservation of cosmetic products. With the new constraints regarding the antimicrobial effectiveness and the restrictive use of preservatives, a D‐optimal design was set up to evaluate the influence of these three parameters on the microbiological conservation. Methods To monitor the effectiveness of the different combination of these set parameters, a challenge test in compliance with the International standard ISO 11930: 2012 was implemented. The formulations established in our study could support wide variations of ethanol concentration, pH values and glycerin concentration without noticeable effects on the stability of the products. Results In the conditions of the study, determining the value of a single parameter, with the tested concentration, could not guarantee microbiological conservation. However, a high concentration of ethanol associated with an extreme pH could inhibit bacteria growth from the first day (D0). Besides, it appears that despite an a w above 0.6 (even 0.8) and without any preservatives incorporated in formulas, it was possible to guarantee the microbiological stability of the cosmetic product when maintaining the right combination of the selected parameters. Conclusion Following the analysis of the different values obtained during the experimentation, there seems to be a correlation between the a w and the selected parameters aforementioned. An application of this relationship could be to define the a w of cosmetic products by using the formula, thus avoiding the evaluation of this parameter with a measuring device.

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