Premium
Rapid screening method to study the reactivity of UV filter substances towards skin proteins by high‐performance thin‐layer chromatography
Author(s) -
Stiefel C.,
Schwack W.
Publication year - 2013
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/ics.12082
Subject(s) - thin layer chromatography , chromatography , reactivity (psychology) , chemistry , thin layer , high performance thin layer chromatography , filter paper , layer (electronics) , medicine , organic chemistry , pathology , alternative medicine
Synopsis Objective Most UV filters used in sunscreens and other cosmetic products contain carbonyl groups, which generally are able to react with peptides or free amino acids of the human skin. To estimate their reactivity, we studied different prominent UV filter substances, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, 4‐t‐butyl‐4′‐methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone‐3, hydroxymethylbenzoyl sulphonic acid, octyldimethyl p‐aminobenzoic acid, 3‐benzylidene camphor, 4‐methylbenzylidene camphor, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and ethylhexyl triazone. Methods A simple screening method using an amino HPTLC plate as protein model was established. The influence of different reaction conditions like heating and irradiation was determined. Results The ketones BP ‐3, HMBS and BM ‐ DBM revealed the highest binding rates after both irradiation and heating. After 1 h of irradiation, 82%, 28% and 96%, respectively, were bonded to the amino phase, while heating resulted in values of 52%, 36% and 16%. For BP ‐3 and HMBS , even storage in the dark at room temperature resulted in a low binding. Contrarily, for the two camphor derivatives 3‐ BC and 4‐ MBC , only irradiation led to a slightly turnover. UV filters with ester groups also showed a different behaviour depending on their main skeleton. While OCR especially reacted under heating with the amino phase, resulting in 36% of bound species after one hour, UV irradiation particularly encouraged a reaction of the other esters. After 1 h irradiation, 15% of EHMC , 38% of EHS and 48% of OD ‐ PABA were bonded to the amino groups of the HPTLC plate, whereas the reactivity of the two triazones, EHT and DEBT , was comparatively low. Conclusion Especially the UV filters BP ‐3, BM ‐ DBM , HMBS , EHMC or OCR , which are commonly known to cause contact dermatitis, showed a high tendency to form adducts with the amino layer. Thus, the amino plate seems to be a proper tool to screen for skin sensitizers.