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Clinical evaluation of a dioic acid‐based formulation on facial skin in an I ndian population
Author(s) -
Merinville E.,
Byrne A. J.,
VisdalJohnsen L.,
Bouvry G.,
Gillbro J. M.,
Rawlings A. V.,
Laloeuf A.
Publication year - 2012
Publication title -
international journal of cosmetic science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.532
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1468-2494
pISSN - 0142-5463
DOI - 10.1111/ics.12002
Subject(s) - population , dermatology , medicine , environmental health
Synopsis The aim of this work was to investigate the effects of 1,18‐octadecen‐9‐dioic acid (dioic acid) and a R umex occidentalis extract complex for their skin‐lightening action in an Indian population. Prior to the clinical study, the efficacy of dioic as an inhibitor of melanogenesis was confirmed on dark‐pigmented human melanocytes. As part of a 12‐week vehicle‐controlled clinical study, the skin‐lightening effect of a test product containing 1% dioic acid, 2% of a R umex occidentalis extract and sunscreens ( SPF 15) was assessed on the facial skin of 71 I ndian female volunteers. Change in skin colour was monitored by (A) C hroma M eter ® measurement ( L *, a *, b *) and I ndividual T ypology A ngle ( ITA ˚) calculation and (B) V isual grading of standardized photographs by a dermatologist. Colorimetric measurements on volunteers' cheeks showed a significant increase of L * and ITA ˚ compared to baseline after 4, 8 and 12 weeks of test product application. For both L * and ITA ˚ measurements, changes were significantly different than the SPF 15‐containing vehicle at weeks 4 and 12. These results were confirmed by the dermatological visual grading. The overall skin‐lightening action of the test product was beyond the one observed with the SPF 15 vehicle. These findings show that a dioic acid and R umex occidentalis complex deliver a significant skin‐lightening effect on facial skin in an Indian population.