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Combinations of potent topical steroids, mercury and hydroquinone are common in internationally manufactured skin‐lightening products: a spectroscopic study
Author(s) -
Maneli M. H.,
Wiesner L.,
Tinguely C.,
Davids L. M.,
Spengane Z.,
Smith P.,
Wyk J. C.,
Jardine A.,
Khumalo N. P.
Publication year - 2016
Publication title -
clinical and experimental dermatology
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.587
H-Index - 78
eISSN - 1365-2230
pISSN - 0307-6938
DOI - 10.1111/ced.12720
Subject(s) - cosmetics , clobetasol propionate , chemistry , mercury (programming language) , hydroquinone , traditional medicine , chromatography , toxicology , medicine , organic chemistry , dermatology , psoriasis , biology , computer science , programming language
Summary Background The topical steroids betamethasone ( BM ) and clobetasol propionate ( CP ) are illegal in cosmetics. Hydroquinone ( HQ ) and mercury (Hg) are either illegal or allowed only in limited concentrations (2% and 1 ppm, respectively). Aim To investigate active ingredients and countries of origin of popular skin‐lightening products available in Cape Town, South Africa. Methods In total, 29 products were examined; of these, 22 products were purchased from informal vendors, and 2 products (out of a total of 29) were purchased over the counter. HQ , Hg 2+ and steroids were quantified by high‐performance liquid chromatography–ultraviolet spectrophotometry, inductively coupled plasma‐mass spectrometry and liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry, respectively. Results Of the 29 products, 22 (75.9%), all imported and bought from informal vendors, contained illegal or banned ingredients: 13 (44.8%) contained steroids (9 CP , 4 BM ), 12 (41.4%) contained Hg (30–2300 ppm), and 11 (37.9%) contained HQ . Sequentially, the products originated from Italy (27.3%, n = 6), India (22.7%, n = 5), the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) (22.7%, n = 5), Cote d'Ivoire (9.1%, n = 2), USA (9.1%, n = 2), UK (4.5%, n = 1) and France (4.5%, n = 1). Two products, one from India and one from the DRC , contained all four ingredients ( HQ , Hg, BM , CP ). Of the 12 products containing Hg, 10 also contained HQ and/or a steroid, yet none listed Hg as an ingredient. A significant proportion of the steroid‐containing products (76.9%) also contained at least one other skin‐lightening agent. Not all internationally available products were tested, which is a limitation of the study. Conclusion In spite of a European Union ban on skin lighteners, a third of the products tested were from Europe. Combinations of Hg and ultrapotent steroids were prominent. International law enforcement and random testing is needed to encourage industry compliance and help protect consumers.