Open AccessThe effect of wave crest speed in breaking waves
Author(s) -
Constantin Cosmin Craciunescu,
Marios Christou
Publication year - 2019
Publication title -
iop conference series. materials science and engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 1757-899X
pISSN - 1757-8981
DOI - 10.1088/1757-899x/586/1/012039
Subject(s) - crest , breaking wave , physics , coupling (piping) , mechanics , optics , wavelength , bandwidth (computing) , boundary element method , geology , wave propagation , materials science , finite element method , engineering , telecommunications , metallurgy , thermodynamics
The present work focuses on the evolution of the crest speed around large focal type water wave events. The phenomenon of crest slowdown around the point of maximum elevation is studied numerically using a boundary element model. The model is used to generate large design waves based on realistic ocean spectra. The evolution in terms of coupling between crest speed reduction and increase in particle velocities is studied up until initiation of wave breaking. It is shown that this coupling is a viable mechanism that leads to the formation of large deep water unidirectional breaking waves regardless of spectral shape and bandwidth.