Open AccessNearshore Wave Propagation Characteristics in Steep Slope Zone of South Java Sea
Author(s) -
Yajing Zhang,
Hanbao Chen,
Yongfu Xu
Publication year - 2021
Publication title -
iop conference series. earth and environmental science
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 1755-1307
pISSN - 1755-1315
DOI - 10.1088/1755-1315/621/1/012158
Subject(s) - geology , swell , waves and shallow water , significant wave height , wind wave , wave height , surface wave , dispersion relation , elevation (ballistics) , dispersion (optics) , water level , seismology , oceanography , geography , geometry , physics , mathematics , cartography , quantum mechanics , astronomy , optics
NCEP provided the ocean wave long term data, one year nearshore wave surveyed at -20m water depth of South Java coast, the relation between two series synchronous data were analyzed, the wave direction are all prevailing from S to SSW. The wave in India Ocean is mostly swell, the significant wave height and period changed obviously and disorder while it is propagating on steep slope from deep water to shallow water. The wave spectrum were calculated, H 0 and T p were adopted for analyzing wave propagation characteristics from global wave position to survey position. The survey wave H 0 and T p have good relation with global wave. The reason of statistic H s and T s decreasing is dispersion on shallow water, which is shown from water surface elevation process.