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Linear and nonlinear wave motion
Author(s) -
Bourodimos E. L.
Publication year - 1968
Publication title -
reviews of geophysics
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 8.087
H-Index - 156
eISSN - 1944-9208
pISSN - 8755-1209
DOI - 10.1029/rg006i002p00103
Subject(s) - breaking wave , physics , amplitude , dissipation , nonlinear system , reflection (computer programming) , mechanics , surface wave , wave shoaling , wave propagation , mechanical wave , classical mechanics , gravity wave , boundary value problem , waves and shallow water , longitudinal wave , optics , quantum mechanics , computer science , thermodynamics , programming language
Wave motion is studied through the development of theoretical models of linear and nonlinear boundary value wave problems. Flow field characteristics and specific boundary conditions and assumptions are considered in each case. A general method for wave propagation over an uneven bottom is presented. The following conclusions may be stated: 1. The linear and nonlinear characteristics of gravity surface waves at discrete frequency were studied on the basis of relative amplitude a * , depth d * , and breaking parameter B r . Part of the breaking behavior has been confirmed experimentally. 2. An increase in energy dissipation up to 50% with increase of values of breaking parameter of the oncoming wave has been established experimentally. 3. The wave amplitude variation and wave energy transmission, unlimited by reflection and friction, are predicted theoretically to the first approximation for any form of channel geometry and type of wave motion. 4. For small‐amplitude waves in shallow water, Green's law has been found from the integral expression in the general case. For waves in intermediate depth or deep water an exponential formula applies.