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Observations of swash zone velocities: A note on friction coefficients
Author(s) -
Raubenheimer B.,
Elgar Steve,
Guza R. T.
Publication year - 2004
Publication title -
journal of geophysical research: oceans
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 1.67
H-Index - 298
eISSN - 2156-2202
pISSN - 0148-0227
DOI - 10.1029/2003jc001877
Subject(s) - swash , turbulence , geology , dissipation , surf zone , mechanics , geomorphology , physics , oceanography , thermodynamics
Vertical flow structure and turbulent dissipation in the swash zone are estimated using cross‐shore fluid velocities observed on a low‐sloped, fine‐grained sandy beach [ Raubenheimer , 2002] with two stacks of three current meters located about 2, 5, and 8 cm above the bed. The observations are consistent with an approximately logarithmic vertical decay of wave orbital velocities within 5 cm of the bed. The associated friction coefficients are similar in both the uprush and downrush, as in previous laboratory results. Turbulent dissipation rates estimated from velocity spectra increase with decreasing water depth from O (400 cm 2 /s 3 ) in the inner surf zone to O (1000 cm 2 /s 3 ) in the swash zone. Friction coefficients in the swash interior estimated with the logarithmic model and independently estimated by assuming that turbulent dissipation is balanced by production from vertical shear of the local mean flow and from wave breaking are between 0.02 and 0.06. These values are similar to the range of friction coefficients (0.02–0.05) recently estimated on impermeable, rough, nonerodible laboratory beaches and to the range of friction coefficients (0.01–0.03) previously estimated from field observations of the motion of the shoreward edge of the swash (run‐up).

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