Built‐in lubrication on cotton fabrics

Partial cotton esters of long chain fatty acids of low degrees of substitution (D.S.<0.20) have been prepared by a variety of methods. In particular, the effects of the introduction of a stearoyl or an oleoyl group into the cellulose matrix on fabric properties, such as softness of hand and wrinkle recovery, have been studied. Attempts have been made to compare fabric properties of partial esters of like D.S. prepared by various methods of esterification and effect of a chemically attached alkanoyl group with effect of the same group deposited or adsorbed on the surface of the cotton fabric. Consideration has been given to the size of the alkyl group, its orientation on the surface of the fiber and its hydrophobicity. Data indicate that resistance to abtasion of cottons chemically modified with long chain alkyl groups is reduced whenever the finished fabric has high dry wrinkle recovery. High dry wrinkle recovery is obtained after esterification of cotton in nonaqueous media. Improvement in resistance to abrasion is pronounced when the alkyl group has not been chemically combined with the cellulose matrix in the absence of water, and usually is obtained when the finished cottons possess only high wet wrinkle recovery.