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Raman mapping coupled to self‐modelling MCR‐ALS analysis to estimate active cosmetic ingredient penetration profile in skin
Author(s) -
Stella Aline,
Bonnier Franck,
Tfayli Ali,
Yvergnaux Florent,
Byrne Hugh J,
Chourpa Igor,
Munnier Emilie,
Tauber Clovis
Publication year - 2020
Publication title -
journal of biophotonics
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.877
H-Index - 66
eISSN - 1864-0648
pISSN - 1864-063X
DOI - 10.1002/jbio.202000136
Subject(s) - stratum corneum , penetration (warfare) , raman spectroscopy , confocal , biological system , partial least squares regression , penetration depth , materials science , biomedical engineering , computer science , optics , mathematics , engineering , physics , medicine , machine learning , pathology , operations research , biology
Confocal Raman mapping (CRM) is a powerful, label free, non‐destructive tool, enabling molecular characterization of human skin with applications in the dermo‐cosmetic field. Coupling CRM to multivariate analysis can be used to monitor the penetration and permeation of active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) after topical application. It is presently illustrated how multivariate curve resolution alternating least squares (MCR‐ALS) can be applied to detect and semi‐quantitatively describe the diffusion profile of Delipidol, a commercially available slimming ACI, from Raman spectral maps. Although the analysis outcome can be critically dependent on the a priori selection of the number of regression components, it is demonstrated that profiling of the kinetics of diffusion into the skin can be established with or without additionnal spectral equality constraints in the multivariate analysis, with similar results. Ultimately, MCR‐ALS, applied without spectral equality contraints, specifically identifies the ACI as one of main spectral components enabling to investigate its distribution and penetration into the stratum corneum and underlying epidermis layers.