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A morphodynamic model for beach gradients
Author(s) -
Hardisty J.
Publication year - 1986
Publication title -
earth surface processes and landforms
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 1.294
H-Index - 127
eISSN - 1096-9837
pISSN - 0197-9337
DOI - 10.1002/esp.3290110310
Subject(s) - beach morphodynamics , sediment transport , geology , sediment , field (mathematics) , geomorphology , hydrology (agriculture) , geotechnical engineering , mathematics , pure mathematics
This paper outlines a general framework for analysis of the problem of beach gradients which divides the system into: (1) the independent controls, (2) the hydrodynamics, (3) the sediment dynamics, and (4) the morphodynamics. A model is derived from the combination of these stages which shows close agreement with field data for wave steepnesses of less than about 0.06, but predicts lower beach gradients than arc observed for steeper waves. The use of ‘analytical feedback’ in the present model rather than the ‘iterative feedback’ which is used in computer simulations demonstrates that differential sediment transport may be responsible for stabilizing the beach gradient.