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Temporal and spatial behaviour of rip channels in a multiple‐barred coastal system
Author(s) -
Quartel S.
Publication year - 2009
Publication title -
earth surface processes and landforms
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 1.294
H-Index - 127
eISSN - 1096-9837
pISSN - 0197-9337
DOI - 10.1002/esp.1685
Subject(s) - intertidal zone , rip current , geology , shore , oceanography , submarine pipeline , bar (unit) , rocky shore , beach morphodynamics , geomorphology , sediment transport , sediment
A 15‐month data set of daily time‐averaged video images (Argus) has been analyzed to describe the spatial and temporal variability of the rip channels on a multiple‐barred coast at Noordwijk aan Zee, The Netherlands. The landward boundary of the intertidal bars and a proxy of the subtidal bar crest, defined as the intertidal and subtidal bar lines respectively, were derived from the Argus images. Local seaward‐directed deviations of the bar lines represent the cross‐shore and alongshore locations of the rip channels. The average intertidal rip spacing ( $\bar \lambda $ ) was 243 m, but the rips were not spaced regularly ( σ λ / $\bar \lambda $ = 0.47). Some intertidal rips were observed to fill up during falling tide, but the majority remained open. The filled intertidal rip channels had more landward positions and migrated more slowly (2.4 versus 4.6 m/day) in the alongshore direction than the open intertidal rip channels. The number and the alongshore migration rate of open intertidal rip channels increased with the preceding wave heights ( r = 0.26, p < 0.01) and alongshore component of the offshore wave power ( r = 0.25, p < 0.01), respectively. The shape of the intertidal bar lines was similar to the subtidal bar line shape, suggesting that the intertidal morphology is coupled to the subtidal alongshore variability. The phase of two bar lines could vary from in phase (0°) to out of phase (180°). The phase changes gradually, due to different alongshore migration rates of the intertidal and subtidal bar lines. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.