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From the design of the shades to the sale of make‐up products: The contribution of the expertise of colorists during research and development
Author(s) -
ClermontGallerande Hélène
Publication year - 2021
Publication title -
color research and application
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 0.393
H-Index - 62
eISSN - 1520-6378
pISSN - 0361-2317
DOI - 10.1002/col.22628
Subject(s) - computer science , quality (philosophy) , process (computing) , architectural engineering , point (geometry) , engineering drawing , mathematics , engineering , philosophy , geometry , epistemology , operating system
At CHANEL, color is both a heritage and a source of innovation that allows them to offer approximately 350 new shades every year. The designer who creates a seasonal make‐up collection determines the shades one and a half year before the collection is launched. The inspiration is then translated into a “brief,” that is, into “words” and material samples. This must be accurate so that the scientists can transpose the colors as faithfully as possible. The colorists' work begins 15 months before the launch: Tone, undertone, opacity, brightness, and reflection. Each developed color is studied in its colorimetric composition to meet the target. Then every needed pigment proportion is determined to achieve the shade. Depending on the final application area, regulatory constraints linked to the chemical nature of the pigments present in the formula must be taken into consideration. All references are validated no later than 12 months before launch. A visual and spectrocolorimetric measurements are carried out to establish the industrial specifications for the manufacturing phase. The pilot phase focuses on the impact of the (manufactured) color quantity increase. The quality laboratory uses visual and instrumental methods to establish the conformity of supplier's pigments and finished products manufactured. Architectural design is used to showcase the color at the point of sale. During the whole process, the colorists will check and validate the colors reproducibility. Their skills are essential in make‐up industry.