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Temporal and spatial evolution of wave‐induced ripple geometry: Regular versus irregular ripples
Author(s) -
Nelson Timothy Robert,
Voulgaris George
Publication year - 2014
Publication title -
journal of geophysical research: oceans
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2169-9291
pISSN - 2169-9275
DOI - 10.1002/2013jc009020
Subject(s) - ripple , geology , wavelength , seabed , geometry , crest , orientation (vector space) , wavenumber , ripple marks , geodesy , mechanics , physics , optics , oceanography , mathematics , quantum mechanics , voltage
Concurrent observations of inner shelf near bed hydrodynamics and acoustic imagery of the seabed are used to relate wave‐induced ripple geometry (wavelength and orientation) to near bed directional wave velocities. The observations were collected on the continental shelf of the South Atlantic Bight at water depths of 9.5 and 30 m off the coasts of South Carolina (median size 177 µm) and Georgia (388 µm), respectively. 2‐D spectral analysis techniques are performed on the imagery to automate detection of ripple wavelength, orientation, and irregularity. Our analysis shows that ripple irregularity is a time‐dependent process dependent on magnitude, direction, and duration of wave forcing. During energetic events, ripple geometry changes rapidly and the ripples align with the main wave direction. During periods of low energy, close to the critical conditions for initiation of sediment motion, ripple evolution occurs at a much slower rate often leading to irregularities such as terminations and bifurcations along the ripple crest. Under constantly changing wave direction, the rippled bed becomes highly disorganized. Six types of ripples are defined based on newly developed irregularity parameters: linear, bifurcating‐linear, linear‐bifurcating, bifurcating and cross, irregular, and disorganized beds. Ripple irregularity depends on the time history of the bed; ripples remain irregular until their wavelength and orientation attain a nearly equilibrium geometry. The observations collected provide significant information on the response of the seabed to wave forcing and identify processes that should be reproduced by any time‐dependent ripple prediction model. Ripple irregularity can only be predicted using such time‐dependent models.