The Wild Market of Natural Cosmetics of Obscure Safety

nologies, and the possible oxidative reactions during storage. Propolis, tea tree oil, and Compositae mix are the most frequently used positive botanical extracts from the integrative series patch tests [5]. Tests with the individual ingredients of the natural product responsible for allergic contact dermatitis would be desirable, but the manufacturers are often reluctant to supply them. Ninety-one percent of natural products contain fragrance ingredients, generally in the form of essential oils and phytoextracts, which are separately labeled and are not recognized as fragrances. Therefore, the dermato-allergist must warn patients of this [7]. Noteworthy is the widespread use of essential oils in cosmetics, for aromatherapy, and by beauty workers, such as masseurs and beauticians [8, 9]. However, when these oils are exposed to atmospheric oxygen, light, humidity, and high temperatures their composition is altered, leading to more sensitizing compounds. COLIPA established concentration limits for some essential oils (e.g., tea tree oil) in cosmetics. In addition, the association with antioxidants, proper storage, and packaging to minimize light exposure are recommended [10]. Moreover, the most important global board, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO), has published the ISO 16128 standard in order to more objectively quantify the content of natural and organic cosmetic ingredients in the finished product, but without being completely exhaustive. In Europe, Regulation No. 1223/2009 regarding cosmetics also includes phytocosmetics. In conclusion, despite popularity and tradition, there is still chaos out of reach of affordable toxicological testing and also out of reach of regulatory control. However, today the concept of “no safety problem” of natural products has reached a level of religious belief among people. Therefore, the widespread “natural product” abolition is not a possible solution to reduce the adverse reactions from phytoextracts. The solution could be research into new extraction techniques to obtain higher-quality products and greater care to limit oxidative degradation. Finally, a control board would be necessary in Italy (such as the Commission E in Germany) for the systematic study of the therapeutic and adverse effects of natural extracts and for their standardization in herbal drugs and phytocosmetics.