Lagrangian transport for two-dimensional deep-water surface gravity wave groups | Zendy

Ton S. van den Bremer | Zendy; Paul H. Taylor | Zendy

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Lagrangian transport for two-dimensional deep-water surface gravity wave groups

Author(s) -

Ton S. van den Bremer,

Paul H. Taylor

Publication year - 2016

Publication title -

proceedings of the royal society a mathematical physical and engineering sciences

Language(s) - English

Resource type - Journals

eISSN - 1471-2946

pISSN - 1364-5021

DOI - 10.1098/rspa.2016.0159

Subject(s) - stokes drift , lagrangian , displacement (psychology) , eulerian path , physics , mechanics , dispersion (optics) , classical mechanics , particle displacement , surface wave , optics , mathematical physics , amplitude , psychology , psychotherapist

The Lagrangian trajectories of neutrally buoyant particles underneath surface gravity wave groups are dictated by two physical phenomena: the Stokes drift results in a net displacement of particles in the direction of propagation of the group, whereas the Eulerian return flow, as described by the multi-chromatic wave theory of Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (1962), transports such particles in the opposite direction. By pursuing a separation of scales expansion, we develop simple closed-form expressions for the net Lagrangian displacement of particles. By comparing the results from the separation of scales expansion at different orders in bandwidth, we study the effect of frequency dispersion on the local Lagrangian transport, which we show can be ignored for realistic sea states

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