Nonlinear dispersion for ocean surface waves
Author(s) -
Raphael Stuhlmeier,
Michael Stiassnie
Publication year - 2018
Publication title -
journal of fluid mechanics
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 1.72
H-Index - 226
eISSN - 1469-7645
pISSN - 0022-1120
DOI - 10.1017/jfm.2018.818
Subject(s) - physics , wavenumber , dispersion (optics) , surface gravity , amplitude , surface wave , gravity wave , dispersion relation , spectral line , nonlinear system , wind wave , wave propagation , computational physics , mechanics , classical mechanics , optics , quantum mechanics , thermodynamics
Two expressions for the nonlinear dispersion relation for gravity waves on water of constant depth are derived, one for wave fields with discrete amplitude spectra, the other for wave fields with continuous wavenumber energy spectra. Numerical examples for wave quartets and for two-dimensional Pierson–Moskowitz spectra are given, and an important possible application is discussed.
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