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Recovery of steady periodic wave profiles from pressure measurements at the bed
Author(s) -
Didier Clamond,
Adrian Constantin
Publication year - 2013
Publication title -
journal of fluid mechanics
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 1.72
H-Index - 226
eISSN - 1469-7645
pISSN - 0022-1120
DOI - 10.1017/jfm.2012.490
Subject(s) - conservative vector field , mechanics , amplitude , surface wave , waves and shallow water , physics , breaking wave , mechanical wave , focus (optics) , longitudinal wave , geology , wave propagation , classical mechanics , optics , thermodynamics , compressibility
International audienceWe derive an equation relating the pressure at the flat bed and the profile of an irrotational steady water wave, valid for all classical solutions of the governing equations for water waves. This permits the recovery of the surface wave from pressure measurements at the bed. Although we focus on periodic waves, the extension to solitary waves is straightforward. We illustrate the usefulness of the equation beyond the realm of linear theory by investigating the regime of shallow-water waves of small amplitude and by presenting a numerical example

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