Open AccessON THE RELATION BETWEEN CHANGES IN INTEGRAL QUANTITIES OF SHOALING WAVES AND BREAKING INCEPTION
Author(s) -
Takeshi Yasuda,
Shintaro Goto,
Yoshito Ysuchiya
Publication year - 1982
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v18.2
Subject(s) - shoaling and schooling , breaking wave , mechanics , physics , computation , wave shoaling , classical mechanics , mechanical wave , mathematical analysis , mathematics , wave propagation , geology , longitudinal wave , optics , oceanography , algorithm
This paper describes a mechanism of breaking waves over sloping bottoms in terms of changes in integral quantities of the waves. Systematic computations are made of wave profiles of shoaling waves up to the numerical unstable points by using the K-dV equation with variable coefficients and internal properties such as horizontal and vertical water particle velocities by a stream function method satisfying the conservation laws of mass and energy. Applicability of the numerical results is examined and a relation between numerical unstable points and actual breaker points is found. Characteristics of the integral quantities of shoaling waves are investigated in relation to the existence of the extremum of the energy of the shoaling waves and their breaking inception.