WAVE AGITATION IN BAYS AND HARBORS-METHODS OF MEASUREMENT AND ANALYSIS

Practical and effective methods for the measurement of and the determination of the type and the mode of wave action in a semi-enclosed basin are investigated. Pressure gages and flow meters are considered as instruments available for such measurement. The combination and arrangement of these instruments as well as the use of power spectral and cross spectral analyses as the basic means of data reduction are discussed. A special attention is given to the problem of estimating the contributions from the progressive and from the standing modes of oscillation separately. Significance of such estimation on engineering planning is briefly discussed. Examples are given.