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A plethora of studies in the past decade describe tsunami hazards and studytheir evolution from the source to the target coastline, but mainly focus oncoastal inundation and maximum runup. Nonetheless, anecdotal reports fromeyewitnesses, photographs and videos suggest counterintuitive flow dynamics,for example rapid initial acceleration when the wave first strikes the initialshoreline. Further, the details of the flow field at or within tens of metersof the shoreline are exquisitely important in determining damage to structuresand evacuation times. Based on a set of three-dimensional numerical simulationsusing solitary waves as a model, we show the spatial-temporal distribution ofthe flow momentum, kinetic energy and force during the breaking process. Weinfer that the flow reaches its highest destructive capacity not when flowmomentum or kinetic energy reach their maxima, but when flow force reaches its.This occurs in the initial shoreline environment, which needs to be consideredin nearshore structures design.

The Temporal and Spatial Evolution of Momentum, Kinetic Energy and Force in Tsunami Waves during Breaking and Inundation